Color knockout and halftone rasterization built specifically for DTF film printing. Drop in any PNG or JPG — even low-res AI output — and get a press-ready halftone. Save ink, save time, get cleaner prints.
From AI artwork to press-ready halftone in one minute — recorded live, no cuts.
No subscription, no account, no cloud. Pay once, download instantly, use it as long as you like.
Turn any AI artwork or PNG into a press-ready DTF halftone. Color knockout and rasterization tuned for DTF film printers — less ink, sharper prints.
One-time payment · Single-seat licence · No subscription
Every feature is designed for real DTF workflows. No bloat, no learning curve.
Process hundreds of designs per hour. Everything runs on your machine — no cloud round-trips, no waiting.
Halftone parameters fine-tuned for DTF film stock. Reliable, repeatable results across every run.
Smart color knockout removes unnecessary white underbase areas, cutting ink usage significantly. Works on any shirt color: other hues stay solid, shades of the shirt color fade out in dots.
Runs entirely in your browser. Your designs never leave your machine — no uploads, no cloud, no tracking.
Customer sent a small JPG? MyHalftone checks the resolution for your print size, smooths JPEG artifacts, sharpens and upscales — automatically, before halftoning. A solid border around the design is trimmed off as well.
Questions or issues? You get answers by email from the person who built the tool — not a ticket system.
What halftone knockout actually changes in production — ink, hand feel, durability.
Every DTF print carries a white underbase beneath the colour layer. Without it, artwork would sink into coloured fabric. The catch: that white layer is laid down across the whole motif — including the areas where the artwork matches the shirt colour exactly. A black element on a black shirt gets a white underbase and is then printed black again. Two layers of ink for a result the garment already provided.
Color knockout inverts that logic. Every area matching the shirt colour is removed from the artwork. The film stays empty there and the fabric shows through — no white, no colour, no transfer material.
A plain knockout produces hard transitions: wherever the artwork contains a gradient, a visible edge appears. That is why the transition zone is rasterised. Instead of a solid area you get a dot pattern that thins out towards the edge. From normal viewing distance the eye reads it as a soft gradient, while in print it is a set of separate, individual dots.
Screen ruling is set in LPI. Broadly: lower LPI means larger, more robust dots; higher LPI means finer transitions but places higher demands on film and printer.
| Delivery | A download link for the program (a single HTML file) plus your personal licence key. Both available immediately after payment. Updates come through the same link. |
| Installation | None. Double-click the file, it opens in your browser. |
| Requirements | A current browser (Chrome, Edge, Firefox, Safari). Windows, macOS or Linux. |
| Internet | For the download and the one-off activation. Everything runs offline afterwards. |
| Input | PNG, JPG or WEBP. Low-resolution artwork is enhanced automatically. |
| Output | PNG with transparency and embedded DPI information, 300 or 600 DPI. |
| Adjustable | Shirt colour (black, white, or any colour via eyedropper), print size in cm or inch, crop and automatic border removal, image enhancement, LPI 20–100, screen angle, dot shape, knockout thresholds. |
| Language & units | English and German interface, sizes in inch or cm — switchable at any time. |
| Licence | Single-seat licence. Commercial use of the generated print files included. |
Yes. MyHalftone produces an ordinary PNG with transparency. Whatever your RIP or printer software normally does with a PNG, it does with this one. There is no printer-specific integration and no device-dependent settings.
No. The tool is the complete workflow — drop in artwork, pick the shirt colour, download the PNG. Cropping is built in: a solid border around the design is removed automatically, and you can drag a box around any area you want to keep. Only for cutting a subject out of a busy background will you still use your usual application.
In most cases, yes. When you load an image, MyHalftone checks its resolution against your print size and shows you the result. If it falls short, the artwork is cleaned up, sharpened and upscaled automatically before the halftone is built, so JPEG blocks and soft edges do not end up in your print. One honest limit: detail that is not in the image cannot be invented, and hard pixel stair-steps in tiny logos stay visible. The tool tells you when a source is very low.
Yes. Pick the shirt colour with the eyedropper and that colour is knocked out. On coloured garments the tool separates by hue: a different hue — red or yellow on a blue shirt — always stays solid, because the fabric can never supply it. Lighter and darker shades of the shirt colour fade out smoothly in halftone dots.
As a starting point: 45 to 55 LPI at 300 DPI. That leaves enough pixels per halftone cell to form clean dots. Finer screens from 65 LPI upwards look softer but want 600 DPI so the dots do not merge. Which value works best for you depends on film, powder and press — run a test motif through, changing the setting takes seconds.
Hard-removing every black pixel creates a visible edge exactly where the artwork holds a gradient — the transition breaks off. MyHalftone rasterises that transition zone instead: from fully knocked out, through progressively denser dots, to solid coverage. It also works with any shirt colour, not just black.
No. All processing runs in the browser on your own machine — your artwork never leaves it. On the very first start the licence key is checked once; only the key and a random device identifier are sent, never any image data. After that you can disconnect from the network and the tool keeps working.
After purchase you receive the file and a licence key in the format MH-XXXX-XXXX-XXXX. Enter it once when you first open the file and click Activate — it takes two seconds. From then on the program opens straight away, with no prompt and no internet. The key covers two machines, so your workshop PC and your laptop are both included.
Use the eyedropper. Open a photo of your blank, click the shirt colour, and take the hex value across. That is more accurate than any preset, because Forest Green measurably differs between Gildan, Fruit and B&C.
That depends entirely on the artwork. A motif consisting largely of the shirt colour saves a great deal, because neither white nor colour is printed there. A colourful motif on white fabric saves little. The only reliable numbers come from comparing two identical sheets — one with knockout, one without.
It is a single-seat licence for one workstation. Backup copies for your own use are expressly permitted and recommended. Passing the file on to third parties is not permitted.
One payment, instant download. Start rasterizing in the next five minutes.
Get MyHalftone for 49 €